Very flattering! ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Hi Simon. Great article . However, how far does that extend to? We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. She is very kind and nice 1 talking about this. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. This is slightly out of my budget. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service sorry if its a silly question. i.e. This is the process by which my suit was also made. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Coats Read More The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Hi Sam This shouldnt really be surprising. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. Still strikes me as cracking value though. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. This is great to know. Thanks. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Id say they are both very good. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Hi Simon. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Photography: Jack Lawson. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. My experience not so good. Thank you in advance. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! This is a proper Savile Row suit. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Hi Ethan, How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Really great blog. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. (And which?). and lovely to talk to. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Hi Simon, I had a strict deadline though. And a pair of flannel trousers? It almost feels like cheating. PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Hey Justin. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Simon quick question. No, the style is different in other ways too. Free shipping for many products! How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. Very good sales and marketing. Thank you for your help and the great website. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Size given is an estimate. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. This looks perfect! I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Impressive finish, congratulations! Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Looking forward to your thoughts. Ill ask. Dear Simon, An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. . I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Subscribe now and save. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? A bit more expensive but still good. Keep up the good work! As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Hi Simon. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. Thank you for getting back to me. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? But then youre paying over twice the price. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. The width here is 3.75 inches. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. It is another interesting approach. which is better in your opinion? Hi Lewis, So essentially the questions are: Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. In my case, a long body and short legs! The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Thank you. The prices are comparable. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? I wanted to share my experience at W&S. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Hi Simon. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Apparel & clothing. Just what Im looking for. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. It sounds like you want something more structured. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. I mean look how they photographed those models. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. So be prepared that its a risk. Pinterest. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Apologies if this is an obvious question. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Have a good weekend. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Jennie Adamson et al. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Hi Simon. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? Just an idea. . I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Just a suggestion! When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Dear Simon, Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter?